Sauteed King Oyster Mushrooms with Cool Weather Herbs and Cream

I found some beautiful King Oyster mushrooms at my farmer's market last week and just had to buy some. Back in my restaurant days I cooked a lot of King Oyster mushrooms glazed in demi glace and cream and finished with chopped parsley and thyme. While quite delicious, they were so rich. With this recipe, I decided to keep some of the decadence with a little half n' half added at the end, but without the huge amount of calories. I used a mixture of terrific cool weather herbs; thyme, parsley, and tarragon. Make sure to add the half n' half at the very end and only cook for a brief second to keep the mushrooms coated.

King Oyster Mushrooms with Cool Weather Herbs and Cream

-2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
-8 oz King Oyster mushrooms, halved lengthwise if small, quartered if large
-2 shallot lobes, minced
-2 tablespoons of mixed herbs such as tarragon, thyme, and parsley
-1/2 tablespoon butter
-2 tablespoons half n' half or heavy cream
-Salt and fresh ground pepper to taste

Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. When hot, add in the mushrooms. Season with a little salt and saute the mushrooms, stirring or flipping often, until they begin to soften and brown on the edges, about 3-4 minutes. Add in the shallot and briefly saute for 1 minute more. Add in the herbs and butter, stir to coat. Add in the half n' half or cream and cook just until the half n' half is warmed through and the mushrooms are coated. Pull off the heat and season to taste with salt and fresh ground pepper. Serve hot.

Carrot-Apple-Fennel Salad with Walnuts

One of my most favorite autumn vegetables (as if they all are not my favorite) is fennel. I think fennel is the best in autumn, even though you can get it year round in mild climates. When raw, it is crisp and refreshing with a licorice like scent and flavor. When sliced paper thin, it's crunch really adds a wonderful texture to salads. My husband and I actually love just plain raw fennel salads dressed simply with lemon juice and olive oil and some parsley, delicious! It is also wonderful cooked too. If someone tells me they don't like fennel, I make them some simple roast fennel and they take back their words every time. When cooked, it will lose much of it's licorice like flavor.

In this salad, paper thin fennel slices are combined with sliced apples and shredded carrots for a beautiful, colorful combination. I add raw walnuts for a little nuttiness and extra fat (the walnuts can be toasted, but their omega-3 fatty acids will be damaged in the process). A simple dressing and some fresh herbs is all this salad needs to finish it off. I like to use the fennel's fronds as an herb, so if you buy your fennel with the stalks on, save the fronds for an herb and the stalks for vegetable stock.

This salad is great with any white fish, chicken, or even pork, or along side a tomato chickpea stew.

Sorry, no picture today, the camera is acting up and I can't get it to work. I will post one later if possible.

Carrot-Apple-Fennel Salad with Walnuts

 Serves 4-6
 Autumn
-2 large carrots, peeled and shredded
-1 sweet, crisp apple (such as Gala)
-1 bulb fennel, fronds removed and reserved
-2-3 tablespoons lemon juice
-1 tablespoon agave nectar
-1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
-3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
-1 tablespoon chopped parsley
-1 tablespoon chopped fennel frond
- ¼ cup chopped walnuts
-Salt and fresh ground pepper to taste



Place the shredded carrots into a large bowl and set aside.
Quarter the apple lengthwise and cut out the core. Halve the fennel bulb and cut out the core. Using a mandolin or very sharp knife, slice the apple and fennel thinly and add to the bowl with the carrots. Squeeze 2 tablespoons of the lemon juice over the vegetables and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper.
In a small bowl whisk together the agave nectar, apple cider vinegar, extra virgin olive oil, parsley, and fennel frond. Pour over the salad and toss to coat. Add in the walnuts. Taste and adjust seasoning with more salt, pepper, and lemon juice if necessary.

Early Summer Vegetable and Kamut Berry Salad

This whole grain salad was made spur of the moment, and was delicious. The farmers market was just beautiful on Saturday, and this salad showcases some of the most recent new comers to the market. Kamut Berries (as well as spelt) are an ancient type of wheat, easily digestible, and hypoallergenic. Many people with wheat sensitivities find they can consume Kamut berries. Quick note about cooking Kamut, or any type of wheat berry; they are very chewy. It can be hard to tell when wheat berries are done. They will be tender, non chalky, very chewy, and void of any raw flavor.

Early Summer Vegetable and Kamut Berry Salad
Serves 4 as a side dish, 2 as a light lunch

-1 golden beet
- ½ cup kamut berries
- ¼ pound green beans, stemmed
-7-10 grape or cherry tomatoes, quartered
- ¼ cup minced red onion
-Handful chopped and toasted hazelnuts
-1 tablespoon chopped mint leaves
-1/2 tablespoon chopped tarragon
-1 tablespoon chopped parsley
-3-4 tablespoons Sherry Vinaigrette
-Salt and fresh ground white pepper to taste

Pre-heat the oven to 350̊F.

Wash and trim the golden beet. Wrap in foil and place in the oven. Bake the beet, letting it steam in the foil, until tender, about 45-60 minutes. Un-wrap the foil and let cool. Peel and dice the beet into small cubes. Set aside.

In a small sauce pan, place the kamut berries and cover with 2 ½ cups water and a pinch of salt. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook until tender but still chewy, about 45-60 minutes depending on the age of the berries. Drain, cool, and set aside.
Cut the green beans into thirds. Steam or blanch until tender but still slightly crisp, about 4 minutes. Shock under cold running water and set aside.

Combined the diced beet, kamut berries, green beans, tomatoes, red onion, hazelnuts, mint, tarragon, parsley, and 3 tablespoons of the sherry vinaigrette in a large bowl. Mix well and taste for seasoning. If the salad seems dry, add a little more vinaigrette. Remember, you can always add more, but never take away. Adjust seasoning to taste with salt and fresh ground white pepper.

Bulgur Wheat and Fava Bean Salad with Feta Cheese, Lemon Basil, and Mint

You know warm weather is coming when fresh fava beans show up at the farmers market. I feel that fresh fava beans our one of our last truly seasonal vegetables. By this I mean that you will almost never find them available in a grocery store or super market out of season (like we do tomatoes, asparagus, and artichokes).

The first of the season fava beans are the best. Even the large beans are tender, requiring only 3-4 minutes of blanching. If you have ever worked with fava beans, you know that they require affection and patience to work with. Only people who love favas actually cook with them. Fresh favas come in large, thick, hairy green pods. These pods must first be split open to reveal the beans inside. These beans then need to be dunked in boiling hot water for a few minutes (depends on their size and age) to make them tender, and to soften their leathery outer skin. This skin then needs to be peeled off (its easy, just pop the beans right out) before the bean can be used. All in all, fava beans have about an 80% loss when all is finished. 1 1/2 pounds of beans in pods will yeild roughly a cup of peeled beans. Fava beans are like artichokes; a bit of a hassle to work with, but sooooo worth the effort!

Fava beans go wonderfully with wheat, salty cheeses, fresh spring herbs, potatoes, artichokes, peas, and even early tomatoes. My favorite herbs to go with fava beans are tarragon, chives, parsley, basil, mint, chervil, and thyme. I have a mini basil garden going, and my lemon basil is flaunting a few beautful,leafy sprigs, which I decided to use in my first fava bean recipe of the year; Bulgur Wheat and Fava Bean Salad with Feta Cheese, Lemon Basil, and Mint. If lemon basil is not available, then any early basil will do. I really love the mint in this recipe as well. The salty and creamy feta cheese really ties the chewy bulgur wheat and tender favas together, while chopped walnuts add a nice toasty crunch. This is a really nice side dish. I used a full 3 tablespoons of exceptional extra virgin olive oil and the juice of two juicy lemons. If you feel the salad is too dry, add more oil or lemon juice if need be.

Bulgur Wheat with Fava Beans, Feta Cheese, Lemon Basil, and Mint Serves 4-6 as a side dish
Spring, Early Summer

-1 cup bulgur wheat
-1 ½ pounds fresh fava beans
-1 small shallot lobe, minced
-1 tablespoon minced fresh lemon basil
-1 tablespoon minced fresh mint leaves
-2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
-1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese*
-Juice of 2 lemons, or to taste
-3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, or to taste
-Handful toasted and chopped walnuts
-salt and fresh ground white pepper to taste

Place the bulgur wheat in a 2 quart pot and cover with 1 ½ cups water and a large pinch of salt. Bring to a simmer, cover, and turn the heat down to low. Cook the bulgur wheat until it has absorbed all the water. Let rest ten minutes, off heat. Uncover, and fluff with a fork. Refrigerate the bulgur if not using with in the hour.

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Remove the fava beans from their thick green pods. Add the fava beans to the boiling water. Blanch until the beans are tender and their skins slip right off, about 3-4 minutes for young, first of the season beans, a little longer for later season beans. Drain and immediately run under cold water until cool. Peel the fava beans. They are now ready to use.

Combine the bulgur wheat with the fava beans, minced shallot, lemon basil, mint, parsley, and a little salt and fresh ground white pepper. Stir to combine. Add in the feta cheese, lemon juice, extra virgin olive oil, and chopped walnuts. Stir well to combine. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary with salt, fresh ground white pepper, lemon juice, and extra virgin olive oil.

*Note: If your feta cheese is very moist and creamy instead of dry and crumbly, add it at the end of mixing, after you have adjusted to taste, otherwise, this dish will get soggy and the feta will disappear into the bulgur wheat.

Mixed Summer Beans with Shallots and Pistachios

I spent the last four days at my parents house up by Yosemite and while there I went to the farmers market down in Fresno. Kind of old stomping grounds, I use to shop there for a restaurant I worked for about 5 years ago. All the same farmers and all the same great produce. I love my farmers market here in SLO, but the Fresno one does have some extras that we do not have (just yet anyway). Being so hot in the valley, the Fresno farmers market was overflowing with summer produce. Lots of tomatoes, all kinds of summer beans, okra, eggplants, basil, corn, and my favorite, watermelon (I bought one and it was delicious!). Many kinds of stone fruit including peaches, nectarines, plums, pluots, and apricots. Lots of berries too. Because it is so hot, the Fresno market does not have many of the items we have year round such as carrots, beets, broccoli, and greens (there were some greens, but they were quite shabby looking), so the SLO market does have an edge. There is a wonderful organic stand at the Fresno market that sells specialty Italian varieties of produce. I bought some terrific basil, Trumpet squash, and red torpedo onions. At another stand I bought the theme of today's recipe; mixed summer beans. I purchased Romano, yellow wax, and green beans. I plan on going back this Saturday since I will be in the area again for 4th of July. I will admit, I LOVE the heat and miss it during the summer months. I love Cayucos, but it is a little cold for me.

This recipe is delicious and quite beautiful. If you happen to see Royal Burgundy beans in addition to green beans and yellow wax, buy them. They will lose a little color once cooked, but they are still gorgeous. The fresh herbs in this recipe are essential, so if you can't find fresh oregano and thyme, then use fresh parsley or basil instead, don't substitute dry herbs. Other nuts can be used as well such as walnuts, hazelnuts, and almonds.

Mixed Summer Beans with Shallots and Pistachios

-1 pound mixed summer beans, tails removed
-2 shallots, minced
-1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
- ¼ cup pistachios, roughly chopped
-2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme

-1 teaspoon minced fresh oregano

-salt and white pepper to taste

-squeeze of lemon

Steam the beans in a steamer basket set over boiling water until tender but still with a slight bite (al dente). Alternatively, blanch the beans in boiling salted water until al dente. When tender, immediately run under cold water or shock in ice water to stop the cooking process and set the color. If using Royal Burgundy beans, the purple color will fade a bit with cooking. Set aside.
Heat the extra virgin olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. When hot, add in the minced shallots. Sweat the shallots until they soften and just slightly brown, about 4-5 minutes. Add in the pistachios, cooked beans, fresh chopped herbs, and about 1-2 tablespoons water or vegetable stock. Stir to combine and heat through, about 3-5 minutes more. Season to taste with salt, white pepper, and a squeeze of lemon.

Eggplant-Tomato Gratin

According to Food Lover's Companion (Herbst, S.H. 2001, 3rd ed.), a Gratin is any dish that is topped with cheese or bread crumbs and browned until crispy under a broiler or in the oven. A Gratin can also refer to the actual cooking vessel of the ingredients, and is usually shallow and wide to allow for maximum surface area of crispy cheese and breadcrumbs. Either way, gratins (as a cooking vessel or as a prepared dish), are beautiful things!

In most instances, thinly sliced vegetables are layered into a shallow baking dish with herbs, seasoning, butter or olive oil, and sometimes cream or stock, and then baked until savory soft, topped with cheese, breadcrumbs, or both, and then browned under the broiler. Sometimes the vegetables can be cut in larger chunks or slices, or even cubed. Potatoes are most commonly used in gratins, but most vegetables will work. Vegetables especially suited to gratins include root vegetables (celery root is terrific), eggplant, tomatoes, peppers, and winter squash. Adding cream, butter, and cheese in between layers will create a very rich gratin, while using just olive oil and softer, juicer vegetables are good for lighter, less filling gratins.

The following recipe is simple and quick to prepare despite what looks like lengthy directions. The slicing of the vegetables and chopping of herbs takes 10 minutes, and making the breadcrumbs takes 5. Use already prepared breadcrumbs if you like, making prep time even less. My recipe for garlic breadcrumbs makes more than you will need, but they freeze very well and are easy to pull out and sprinkle on almost anything baked to add flavor and texture. Top fresh tomatoes with the crumbs and broil for a great side dish, or use as a binder or soup thickener. I used 2 small eggplants for this dish weighing about 3 ounces each. I prefer small, baby eggplants or thin Asian eggplants over the large globe style; I find them less bitter and feel they have better flavor and texture. If you use a large eggplant, which is perfectly fine, you will probably need less slices to cover the bottom of your baking dish. For my cooking vessel I used a shallow Le Creuset ceramic baking dish (a wedding gift from my wonderful culinary arts students), but any shallow baking dish will work. You can also make individual gratins if you like, separating the ingredients into individual creme brulee style ceramic dishes and shortening the cooking time. The cooking time for this gratin is lengthy (most are), but necessary to create a savory soft texture and to concentrate the juices from the tomatoes.

Eggplant-Tomato Gratin with Garlic Breadcrumbs

For the Gratin
-4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
-8 slices eggplant, ¼ inch thick
- ½ sweet yellow onion, sliced thin
-9-10 slices fresh tomato, ¼ inch thick
- ½ tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
- ½ tablespoon chopped fresh oregano
-1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil
-salt and black pepper

For the Bread Crumbs

-3 slices bread, toasted until dry
-2-3 cloves garlic, minced

-1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil

-1/2 tablespoon of gratin herbs

-small pinch of salt and black pepper

Pre-heat the oven to 400̊F.

Mix the chopped herbs together, setting aside ½ tablespoon for the bread crumbs.

Drizzle 1 tablespoon of the extra virgin olive oil all over the bottom of a 9” by 9” ceramic gratin or baking dish. Layer the slices of eggplant on top of the oil, overlapping if necessary. Season with a small amount of salt and black pepper. Spread the thinly sliced onions evenly over the eggplant. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon of the extra virgin olive oil and half of the chopped fresh herbs. Layer the tomato slices evenly over the onions, overlapping if necessary, and drizzle the remaining 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil over the tomatoes. Season again with a small amount of salt and black pepper, and the rest of the fresh chopped herbs. Place the gratin dish, uncovered, into the oven and bake for 35-45 minutes, or until the sides begin to brown and the eggplant begins to soften. Place a cover over the gratin and continue baking another 20-25 minutes, or until the vegetables begin meltingly soft and tender. Remove the cover and bake 10-15 minutes more to concentrate the juices. Remove from the oven and set aside.

In a food processor fitted with an S-blade, grind the dry bread slices into crumbs. Add in the minced garlic, extra virgin olive oil, and reserved ½ tablespoon of chopped herbs. Grind again to mix. You will have more bread crumbs than you need, so save or freeze for another use.
Turn the oven to broil. Sprinkle 3-4 tablespoons of the bread crumbs over the top of the gratin. Place under the broiler and broil until the crumbs become brown and crispy, and the gratin juices are bubbling. Serve hot, warm, or even at room temperature.

New World Quinoa Pilaf

Native to Chile and referred to as the "Mother Grain" by the ancient Incas, Quinoa has been nourishing and sustaining civilizations for thousands of years. Quinoa is not a true grain in biological terms. It is the seed to a bushy plant that is a distant relative of spinach. Quinoa is used however just like most grains, and is a perfect stand in for rice and wheat. It is a small, round, flat seed that varies in colors from beige, to red, to black. It is a whole food, retaining both its germ and bran. When cooked, the germ creates a whitish ring around the quinoa with a little curly tail coming from the grain. I have been passionately in love with quinoa since the day I met it six years ago in a restaurant I worked in. I have been seeing it pop up more and more in cook books and food magazines, which is terrific as it deserves a high place in any whole foods kitchen.

Don't let the modesty of this tiny, mighty seed fool you; it is a powerhouse of nutrition. Quinoa is one of the few grains (amaranth and teff are the others), that is a complete protein, meaning it contains all 9 of the essential amino acids. Most grains are low in the amino acid lysine making their protein profile incomplete, but not quinoa. Quinoa is high in fiber which helps to protect our bowels and heart; it is packed full of minerals such as magnesium, zinc, phosphorus, iron, copper, and manganese; it is high in B vitamins which are essential for energy production, and it is also high vitamin E, a wonderful antioxidant and cell protector. Quinoa also contains no gluten, making it perfect for gluten sensitive people. It has a rather mild flavor that is quite pleasing, which I think would make it kid friendly. Quinoa goes well with most foods, but especially South American and Mexican flavors. It has an affinity for chilies, cumin, cilantro, lime, potatoes, sweet potatoes, avocado, tomatoes, and squash. Use quinoa in place of rice for a more nutritious meal. Quinoa can also be found in flour form and can be used in place of 25% of wheat flour in most recipes. Quinoa may first be rinsed before using to remove its natural coating of saponin, which is natures bug repellent. The saponin can be bitter and soaping tasting, but I have found that it just depends on the quinoa. I always cook a small bit just to see if this is even necessary, and I usually find that it is not. Saponins are not bad for you, so it is not a big deal, it all depends on your tastes. Quinoa can be found in any health food store or Trader Joes.

New World Quinoa Pilaf

This is not a completely traditional pilaf cooking method. Normally when cooking in the pilaf style, all of the ingredients are cooked together. However, I don't like overcooked summer squash with raw potato if you get my drift, so I tweak the method a little. The quinoa itself is cooked like a pilaf, then the rest of the ingredients are sauteed on the side and folded in.

-1 cup quinoa, rinsed
-1 3/4 cups water

-1 1/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

-1/2 cup small diced purple onion

-1 teaspoon fresh ground cumin

-2 small Peruvian purple potatoes, diced small

-1 cup green beans cut into 1/2 inch lengths

-2 cloves garlic, minced

-1 Gold Bar summer squash, diced

-2 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro

-salt and fresh ground pepper

-lime wedges to garnish

In a medium sized pot heat 1/2 tablespoon of the extra virgin olive oil over medium heat. When hot, add in the diced purple onion and sweat until translucent and beginning to soften, about 3-4 minutes. Add in the fresh ground cumin and cook about 30 seconds to 1 more minute. Add in the rinsed quinoa and stir to coat with the onions and oil. Let the quinoa slightly toast, about 2-3 minutes. Add in the water, a pinch of salt, and bring to a boil. The second it boils, turn down to a low simmer and cover. Cook the quinoa until all liquid has been absorbed and the germ of the quinoa begins to curl, about 15-20 minutes. Let rest, covered for at least 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, Heat the rest of the extra virgin olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. When hot, add in the diced potatoes. Stir often to prevent the potatoes from sticking, purple potatoes can be rather starchy sometimes and will stick easily. Cook until the potatoes begin to slightly brown and soften on the edges. Add in the cut green beans and a pinch of salt. Cook about2 more minutes. Add about 3-4 tablespoons (1/4 cup) water or stock to the pot and cover. Let steam about 3-4 minutes, or until the potatoes are almost completely soft. Remove the l;id and add in the squash and garlic. Continue cooking until the squash is just tender, as well as the green beans. Season with salt and pepper.

Stir the sauteed vegetables and chopped cilantro into the quinoa. Taste and adjust seasoning as necessary. Serve with lime wedges.

First of the Year Summer Squash and Romano Beans

Black Beauty, Gold Rush, Zephyr, Rond de Nice, Peter Pan, Eight Ball, Crook Neck, Middle Eastern; yellow, gold, black, deep green, white; long, skinny, thin, scalloped, round, trumpet shaped; only a prolific vegetable could come in such a bounty of enticing names, colors, and shapes. Summer squash, in its most general term, is a highly underestimated vegetable (or fruit I should say). I say underestimated because, like tomatoes which also have the same prolific nature, summer squash is available year round in every grocery store, yet in only 2-3 varieties. It is easy to take them for granted, as if they should be available year round. But like a tomato out of season, summer squash out of season can be watery, soggy, flimsy, and pithy, with no real flavor except that of which it is cooked in. I think my appreciation and love for all foods seasonal began with this fruit, and like so many other gardeners, it was one of the first foods I ever grew. Of course, again like everyone else, I planted about 8-9 plants thinking I could keep up with them. A truly rewarding experience as I shoved summer squash into every willing and not so willing refrigerator. My husband drew the line one night as we sat down to a dinner of sauteed zucchini, summer squash salad, and squash fritters. I am only allowed to plant 4-5 plants at the most now!

Come mid May to early June, farmers market stands everywhere are over piled with summer squash of all kinds. Look for, and even ask for, more interesting and unknown varieties such as trumpet squash (a sort of bulbed squash with a long, slender neck and golden green color. The flesh is a golden yellow with a butter flavor.); or Eight Ball (a perfectly round, very dark green ball of squash that does look quite similar to an eight ball). Don't be afraid to buy outside of the conventional zucchini and crook neck, you will be pleasantly surprised. When cooking such a tender food, the most devastating thing we can do is to overcook. Please do not overcook your squash, I am begging you! A few minutes in a saute pan is all it needs. Avoid adding extra water or too much moisture to summer squash, unless it is the form of a beautiful homemade dressing. Summer squash made into a raw salad is also a terrific way to utilize this abundant fruit. Just slice thin, or peel into ribbons, dress with a little lemon juice and a good glug of outstanding cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil, a summer herb such as basil, salt, and fresh ground black pepper. A terrific side dish for a BBQ. Add a few quartered grape tomatoes and some toasted whole grain bread spread with goat's cheese for a satisfying lunch. Your options are limitless.

The recipe below contains another prolific, truly summer vegetable with a general name; fresh summer beans. In this recipe I used the very first Romano beans available. Romano beans, also known as Italian flat beans, are a delicious, meaty, tender alternative to the classic round Kentucky Wonder or Blue Lake green bean. Romano beans are flat and wide, with a round bean inside, and like other summer beans and wax beans, they come in a range of greens to yellows to purples, and need minimal cooking. Look for them at your market, or even grow your own. They grow exactly like other fresh bush beans and the seeds can be found just about anywhere. Make a small spot for them in your summer garden and you will have plenty! They are wonderful with lots of olive oil and garlic, or lightly steamed and mixed with cucumbers and tomatoes with olive oil, salt, and black pepper. Their flavor is delicate, so keep it simple. Romano beans are also a classic addition to any summer minestrone (see the Spring Minestrone entry from Monday, April 28th).

Sauteed Summer Squash and Romano Beans with Tarragon

-1 generous tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
-4 summer squash of any kind, washed, cut in half, and sliced about 1/4 inch thick
-1/2 pound Romano beans, cut into thirds
-1 large garlic clove, minced
-salt and fresh ground pepper
-1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon


In a large saute pan, heat the olive oil over medium high heat. When hot, add in the sliced summer squash and Romano beans. Season with a little salt and pepper. Saute about 3-4 minutes, stirring often, until the squash and beans begin to soften on the edges. Add in the garlic and saute 2 more minutes, or until the squash and beans are tender but still slightly crisp to the bite. Turn off the heat and season with salt and pepper. Stir in the chopped tarragon and serve. This is also fantastic with toasted pine nuts added at the end of the saute.

Rosemary-Garlic Smothered Potatoes

Potatoes are an all time American favorite, as they should be, they are native to the Americas. Even so, the potato was not introduced into North America until the 18th century. According to Elizabeth Schneider, author of Vegetables, from Amaranth to Zucchini (2001, William Morrow, pg 500), the potato took the long route to North America via Irish immigrants instead of coming straight from their native South America. There are over 2,000 varieties of potatoes grown throughout the world, yet in America, only about four are regularly grown and consumed. Fortunately, because of farmers concerned about diversity and chefs looking for more interesting vegetables to put on their menus, our potato portfolio is expanding.

Small, petite potatoes are all the rage, as well as potatoes varying in colors from red, to gold, to white, to purple. It is good to experiment with all kinds to find the ones you enjoy the most. Just because the color is pretty does not mean the flavor is all that interesting. A potatoes texture can vary just as much as its color and shape. Some potatoes, such as reds, are waxy in texture and hold their shape well once cooked. Waxy potatoes are excellent for steaming, boiling, and roasting. Starchier potatoes, such as russets, have a fluffy, dry texture and fall apart more easily once cooked. Use these as mashed potatoes, or in potato gratins where their starch content is necessary to hold the gratin together. Blue or purple potatoes are quite popular because of their unusual, interesting color. Their flavor can be quite good, and they are a little more on the starchy side. They fall apart a bit easily when boiled and turn an odd gray color, which is unattractive for a mashed or pureed potato. Use these in a mix of roasted potatoes or roasted vegetables to bring out their unique color. The distinctive Fingerling potato is also a new favorite. They are quite pricey, are always small, and have an elongated, slightly twisted shape. They come in all colors and flavors and are firm when cooked. They are great for potato salads, roasted, braised, or sauteed.

Don't be fooled by the label "New potato", which most people have come to understand as meaning any small potato. A new potato is actually the very first harvest of a potato plant while the foliage is still green. New potatoes can be be both small and mature and are easiest to find in late spring through summer at a farmers market. New potatoes will have very thin, delicate skin and juicier flesh. A potatoes natural season is late spring and all during summer, but once harvested and properly cured, they can be stored throughout the autumn and winter until the next crop arrives. This ability to store well makes the potato a great autumn and winter food when other foods are scarce.

Prepare the more unique potatoes and small potatoes simply. Their delicate flavors can be overpowered easily. Potatoes have a natural affinity for flavorful fats such as good olive oil and walnut oil, as well as almost all herbs. Just a little extra virgin olive oil, flaky salt, and parsley will make an amazing side dish out of almost any small potato.

Rosemary and Garlic Smothered Baby Red Potatoes
For this dish I like to use potatoes no bigger than the size of a golf ball, but any potato can be used, just cut them into the appropriate sized chunks. Fingerlings would be perfect for this dish as well. If you happen to come across a variety of potato called German Butterball, buy some, they are wonderful and would be great here. They have a papery skin and beautiful yellow, buttery flesh. This recipe would serve between 2-4 people as a side dish.

-15 small red potatoes about the size of a golf ball.
-4 large cloves garlic, minced
-1 heaping tablespoon minced fresh rosemary
-2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
- 1/2 - 3/4 cup water of vegetable stock
-salt and freshly ground pepper (I like to use white pepper)

Scrub the potatoes clean if any dirt is still clinging to their skins. Cut the potatoes in half length wise to create the most surface area possible.

In a large saute pan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat until quite hot. Add in the potatoes, cut side down, and immediately shake the pan to keep the potatoes from sticking. Let the potatoes become golden on the cut side, shaking the potatoes often to keep them loose, about 7-8 minutes. When golden, turn off the heat and pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Return the pan to medium heat and add in the garlic along with a little salt and pepper. Add in the garlic and saute for about 2 minutes to soften. Add in the rosemary and about 1/2 cup water or stock. Bring to a simmer and partially cover the pan. Let the potatoes cook until they are easily pierced with the tip of a knife yet still slightly firm. If the liquid in the pan dries up before the potatoes reach this point, add in the last 1/4 of liquid to finish. Remove the lid and turn up the heat to finish reducing any liquid that remains in the pan. Swirl the pan to coat the potatoes in the garlic, rosemary, and reduced liquid. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Serve hot or warm.

Savory Roasted Spring Vegetables

Roasted Vegetables are my quick fix dinner. Their versatility makes them appropriate for any season, they are easy and quick to prepare, delicious, and beautiful. All you need are sturdy seasonal vegetables, a drizzle of olive oil, a sprinkling of herbs, salt and fresh ground pepper, 30 minutes in the oven, and you have a great side dish or even full dinner. I don't know anyone who does not enjoy roasted vegetables.

Since they can be suited to any season, it is hard for a dish of roasted vegetables to become boring. Here is quick list of options for each season, along with good accompanying fresh herbs:

Spring

• Beets, Cauliflower, Carrots (whole when small), New Potatoes, Baby Artichokes, Fennel, Spring Onions, Butter Turnips, Whole Red Radishes, Asparagus.


• Herbs: Thyme, Oregano, and/or Savory added at the beginning. Parsley, Tarragon, Chive, and/or Fennel Frond added when the veggies come out of the oven.

Summer

• Summer Squash (just wash and cut in half), Fennel, Potatoes, Peppers (in large chunks), Eggplant, Corn Cob Pieces, Garlic Cloves, Halved Plum Tomatoes.


• Herbs and Seasonings: Thyme, Marjoram (really good with summer squash), Minced Garlic (the garlic works here because most summer vegetables need little roasting time), all added at the beginning. Parsley, Basil, Cilantro, added at the end.

Autumn

• Sweet Potatoes, Any kind of Potato, Winter Squash (butternut chunks, acorn round, kobacha, sweet dumpling, pumpkin), Beets, Cauliflower, Carrots, Chunks of Peppers, Eggplant, Whole Garlic Cloves.


• Herbs and Seasonings: Rosemary, Sage, Thyme, Marjoram, Whole Bay Leaves, Fresh Ground Dried Chilies, Fresh Ground Cumin, all added at the beginning. Parsley and Basil added at the end with Eggplant and Peppers.

Winter

• Potatoes, Onion Pieces, Winter Squash, Sweet Potato, Celery Root, Turnips, Rutabagas, Whole Garlic Cloves, Carrots, Cauliflower, Cabbage Wedges, Fennel (if you have good winter weather).


• Herbs and Seasonings: Rosemary, Sage, Oregano, Thyme, Whole Bay Leaves, Paprika, Mustard, Winter Savory, all added at the beginning.

I'm sure there are other options I have missed, so be creative. It is hard to mess up roasted vegetables. A few rules to follow are; always cut the vegetables in larger chunks so they do not dry out, drizzle with olive oil for moistness and flavor, salt right before putting in the oven (if you add salt an hour before roasting, the salt will pull out moisture from the veggies, making them crisp up more in the oven, which can be good for potatoes if you like oven fries), and cut everything the same size so they cook in the same amount of time. Roast vegetables between 350 degrees (for harder, denser vegetables that need longer cooking) and 400-425 degrees for shorter cooking vegetables.

Savory Roasted Spring Vegetables

-1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

- 1/2 head of cauliflower, cut into large florets

-3 medium sized carrots, peeled and cut in half lengthwise

-2 large spring onions, cut in quarters through the root

-3 red or golden beets, peeled and cut in quarters

-2 bulbs fennel, cut in quarters through the root

-1 tablespoon fresh chopped savory

-salt and fresh ground pepper

Pre-heat the oven to 375 degrees. Toss all the cut vegetables, except the beets, in a large bowl with the olive oil, most of the savory, a sprinkling of salt, and fresh ground pepper. Pour out onto a sheet tray lined with baking paper and arrange in a single layer (use two sheet trays if you need to). Toss the beets with the left over savory, a little more olive oil if the bowl is dry, and salt and pepper, arrange on the sheet trays as well, away from the other vegetables (the beets will turn everything red or yellow). Roast in the oven, stirring about every 10-15 minutes, until tender and caramelized, about 25-30 minutes. Serve hot.

Asparagus and Wild Rice; A Beautiful Combo

I think spring may officially be here. Well, at least on the Central Coast of California it is. I spend about 45 minutes to an hour every Saturday morning at my local farmer's market buying food for my husband and I (me plus growing baby) for the week. About 75% of what we eat comes from this market, and we eat almost 100% seasonally. The California Central Coast is blessed climate wise and we have packed farmer's markets year round, brimming with seasonal produce. If you start to follow this blog, you will notice that almost all of my recipes are based upon the seasons and what produce is available at my market. That is not to say that I do not buy produce from other regions, for example tropical fruits. I do, but if a food is local to my region, I always opt to buy this first before any other.

The last two markets have been showing the promises of spring, with snap and shelling peas, asparagus, more varieties of greens than I can count, fava beans, and spring garlic and onions at every stand. We always have cauliflower, broccoli, radish, fennel, carrots, and beets (as I said, we are blessed) so these are usual foods on our weekly menus. I bought my first bunch of local asparagus and decided to make the below salad with it, one of my favorites. I wrote this recipe a little over a year ago and added it to a small vegan cookbook I wrote for a vegetarian cooking class I teach a couple times every spring.

Normally, I cook wild rice in the fall and winter, with its complex flavors and heady aromas comforting our chilly house, but this recipe is a good way to use wild rice in the spring. Wild rice is one of the few grains (actually, the seed to an aquatic grass) that is native to the Americas, the Great Lakes area to be exact. Most of the wild rice available to us today is actually commercially grown in California. This wild rice lacks the complexity of available colors and flavors of a true wild rice, but is still good, and is a little more consistent in size and cooking time. If you have some true wild rice available, use it, your salad will turn out a little more interesting. This salad is quite light on the stomach and I find the additions of Myer lemon and fennel to be crisp and refreshing. If asparagus is not available or unwanted (who doesn't like asparagus?), snap peas are just as good, and toasted sunflower seeds make a tasty replacement for hazelnuts. I also sometimes like to add thin slices of steamed beets to the bottom of the platter. I always save my ends that I remove from my asparagus spears to use in some kind of pureed soup where the stringy texture will not prevail. Most likely a recipe featuring these ends will come forth some time this week, so stay tuned and save yours. Hope you like the salad.

Wild Rice, Asparagus, and Hazelnut Salad with
Meyer Lemon-Shallot Dressing

Copyright by Correne Quigley, 2007

-½ cup wild rice
-15 asparagus spears with tough ends removed, cut into

¾ inch pieces and slightly blanched**
-½ cup finely minced fennel bulb
-½ cup toasted, chopped hazelnuts
-2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
-1 teaspoon minced tarragon
-1 tablespoon minced fennel frond

Dressing Ingredients:

-1 tablespoon minced shallot

-1/4 cup Myer lemon juice
-1 tablespoon raw apple cider vinegar

-2 teaspoons raw honey
-2 teaspoons white miso
-1/4 cup organic, cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil

For the salad:
Combined the ½ cup wild rice with 1 ½ cups water and a pinch of salt in a medium sized pot. Bring to a boil and immediately turn down to a simmer and cover. Cook until the rice has absorbed all the liquid. Pour the rice out onto a plate to cool. When cool, combine the cooked wild rice with the blanched asparagus spears**, minced fennel, and chopped hazelnuts. Season with a little salt and pepper, set aside.

For the dressing:
Place the minced shallots, Meyer lemon juice, vinegar, honey, and white miso in a medium sized glass jar fitted with a lid. Shake the jar to mix the ingredients and to incorporate the miso. Remove the lid and add in the olive oil. Shake vigorously again. Alternately, whisk all of the ingredients together in a bowl. Slowly add the olive oil in a thin, steady stream, to evenly incorporate while constantly whisking.

Assemble the salad:
Pour about 4 tablespoons of the dressing over the rice mixture to moisten. Mix well and taste for seasoning of salt and white pepper. Let the salad stand a few minutes to absorb the dressing and taste again. If it is too dry and bland, add about 2 more tablespoons and repeat the same procedure, allowing the rice to absorb the dressing. This recipe usually takes about 6 tablespoons of dressing, but it is a good idea to add slow. You can always add more, but never take away. Add the herbs right before serving to preserve their bright flavors. This salad serves about 4 people as a side dish, or 2 as a main course.

** To blanch the asparagus pieces: Instead of dropping the pieces into lots of rapidly boiling salted water, instead, I place the pieces into a large bowl and cover with three times as much simmering water and cover. I leave this for about 3-4 minutes, or until the asparagus reach a crisp-tender texture. I then immediately drain the asparagus and run under cold water to cool quickly and preserve crunch and color. I like the asparagus just slightly crunchy for this dish, and I prefer the gentle cooking this method provides. Your asparagus will not turn brown from this unless you leave it in the hot water for a long time. This is the method I use when I want to just take away the raw edge from a vegetable.